British Columbia

Polynesian canoe expedition circumnavigating Pacific Ocean makes stops in B.C.

“For these people to just take some random Hawaiians and feed us and house us and feed us until we can’t eat anymore and then sharing their special stories with us — it’s been pretty amazing,” said captain-in-training Moani Heimuli.

Crew meeting with Indigenous communities at each stop to share cultural knowledge and stories

A man pulls a large, ornate canoe closer to the dock.
Hokule'a, a Polynesian canoe, is pulled closer to the dock at Prince Rupert, B.C., during an expedition circumnavigating the Pacific Ocean. (Submitted by Polynesian Voyaging Society)

Communities in B.C. are playing host to a canoe expedition that plans, over the next four years, to circumnavigate the Pacific Ocean. 

The expedition is being operated by the Polynesian Voyaging Society (PVS). 

The society says the traditional Polynesian canoe — which has been named Hōkūleʻa, after the guiding star also known as Arcturus — will travel an estimated 43,000 miles around the Pacific Ocean and stop at more than 300 ports, 36 countries and archipelagoes and nearly 100 Indigenous territories along the way.

The idea is to preserve traditional Polynesian voyaging methods and create a global educational movement on ocean preservation. PVS says Hōkūleʻa was designed to replicate ancient canoes.

Moani Heimuli, a captain-in-training under navigator and expedition CEO Nainoa Thompson, told CBC News that the expedition is named Moananuiakea, after the Pacific Ocean.

"It's a four-year voyage, and we're voyaging around our Pacific Rim, starting in Alaska, ending in Japan. And we will be voyaging for our oceans, voyaging for our kids, so that generations from now, they can still feed themselves from our oceans here," she said from a stop in Prince Rupert, B.C.

"And really for our island earth. We really care for our planet, and we really care for the Pacific Ocean. … it's going to be a great voyage, and it has been a great voyage thus far."

Worldwide voyage began in June

Hōkūleʻa began its worldwide voyage from Juneau, Alaska, in mid-June and has made several stops at Alaskan and British Columbian ports since.

The canoe sleeps 10 people comfortably, Heimuli said, and modern technology has helped them avoid bad weather — so the journey has been relatively smooth.

Hawaiians, she said, are "deep sea people," and there aren't a lot of inland waterways at home, so the crew is sailing during daylight hours only to avoid any safety issues.

At each stop, Hōkūleʻa's crew meets with local Indigenous communities to share knowledge and stories of what each group is doing to preserve their culture.

People at a dock near the ocean gather around the crew of a Polynesian canoe on a sunny day. Mountains are visible in the background.
People at the dock in Prince Rupert greet crew members on the Polynesian canoe Hokule'a, which is stopping at ports in B.C. on an expedition circumnavigating the Pacific Ocean. (Submitted by Polynesian Voyaging Society)

"We're taking the stories that a lot of these communities have and intertwining them — taking them home and sharing them with our people, and sharing them with these other communities. It's kind of like a coconut wireless," Heimuli said.

"We're going around and sharing our stories with the next community, from the past community. And we're continuing to tell this story for generations. Our kids, and our generations next, will always tell the story of these different places."

Heimuli said her favourite stop so far has been at Angoon, Alaska — where Moananuiakea crew members helped local Indigenous youth launch canoes for the first time since the Angoon Bombardment of 1882 when American naval forces destroyed the village.

After a few days in Haida Gwaii, Hōkūleʻa stopped in Prince Rupert over the weekend and met with representatives of the Haida, Tsimshian, Tlingit, and Nisgaʻa Nations.

The canoe will depart for Campbell River on Thursday, weather permitting, and tentatively make several stops on the way, including at Klemtu, Bella Bella, Namu, Port Hardy, Alert Bay, and Brown's Bay Resort.

The crew will change over at Campbell River, Heimuli said.

When she heads back home to Hawaii, Heimuli said she's excited to bring stories to her family and friends, including those of how hospitable people here have been.

"For these people to just take some random Hawaiians and feed us and house us and feed us until we can't eat anymore, and then sharing their special stories with us — it's been pretty amazing."

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Srushti Gangdev

Reporter/Editor

Srushti Gangdev is a reporter with CBC Vancouver. You can contact her at srushti.gangdev@cbc.ca.

With files from Moira Wyton