Will Vancouver ditch kale smoothies in favour of fatty French fare?

Quality French food options are on the rise in Vancouver, according to On the Coast food columnist Gail Johnson.

Following the recent Vancouver Magazine Restaurant Awards that crowned Quebec-French inspired restaurant, St. Lawrence, as restaurant of the year, Johnson joined host Gloria Macarenko to discuss how the rich fare seems to buck the veggie-forward trends of previous years.

"Certainly the strongest trends lately in local food and dining have been plant-based or plant-forward menus, all things green goodness-y," said Johnson.

"St. Lawrence is not that. It highlights ingredients like duck, pork, venison, and steak. There's duck liver and foie gras mousse and house-made terrines."

Johnson suggests trying the classic Quebecois tourtiere — a meat pie — a dish she says can be difficult to source on the West Coast.

"I did French immersion in Edmonton and studied at the University of Alberta's French faculty, and I remember how beloved this dish was in the Franco-Albertan community. It's not a common dish here in Vancouver," she said.

'Reasonably priced cafe'

Vancouverites can also can get a classic French fix at Collette Grand Café, found inside high-end fashion retailer Holt Renfrew's downtown location.

While the clothing might be on the pricey side, Johnson said the cafe prices are actually on par with the Vancouver food scene.

"It's very reasonably priced for a French restaurant, serving dishes like a perfectly folded omelette with Ocean Wise Dungeness crab, fresh shrimp, and salmon roe, served with living greens," for $20, said Johnson.

There, diners can also find beef tartare and salade Nicoise with seared albacore tuna. Creamed truffled mushrooms are served on toasted focaccia with pecorino.

Leading the kitchen is executive chef Jason Harris, who studied at Vancouver Community College's culinary school. Harris has worked at several Fairmont hotels and is a former core member of Culinary Team Canada.

He represented Canada in the World Culinary Olympics in Germany in 2016, helping the team win two gold medals and one silver.

"Colette offers great value for high-level execution," said Johnson.