Apna Desi's Baldev Gill's take-home marinated masala meats

"It all started with a spoon," Baldev Gill said as he toured us through the kitchen of his year-old second location of Apna Desi Meat Masala, in a new retail development in Taradale.

The kitchen is well-organized and spacious, with tandoor ovens, an enormous mixer for naan and samosa dough, tub-sized metal woks and a special naan oven from the UK with a large metal disc that rotates dough through temperatures close to that of a pizza oven. 

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He shows us buckets of colourful spice pastes in the walk-in fridge, and racks of kebab skewers as he tells us with a grin about the Diwali (an autumn Hindu festival of lights) party for 1,300 he's planning to cook for. 

'What are you doing driving a truck?'

Gill was a truck driver before friends took notice of his cooking skills and encouraged him to start his own business.

With a large family — he's one of nine children and came to Toronto from the Punjab when he was 12 — there are plenty of gatherings and celebrations, often involving barbecued meats.

One particular wedding brought family members from across Canada, the UK and Singapore, and the party spread out over two weeks of cooking, eating and drinking.

"That's what our people do," Gill said.

"Everyone loved my cooking and my masalas. My family noticed me doing good. My friend said, what are you doing driving a truck? You should be cooking."

No beef, no pork

In 2005 Gill rented a couple small units in Falconridge from the same friend and opened Apna Desi, a shop specializing in fresh, high quality meats, primarily chicken, fish, lamb and goat, skinned, cut and marinated in his own spice blends, ready for the stove, oven or barbecue.

He sources his chicken and goat from Innisfail and doesn't carry beef or pork out of respect for the Hindu and Muslim communities.

"My focus is on all the communities," he said. "I respect everyone's choices."

A year ago he opened a second location, which he runs with his wife, Bhupinder, and son Amirt. Some of their marinated meats go to restaurants, and they do catering and takeout, offering unique dishes like quail or partridge curry, and goat burgers. 

No cutting corners

Not many people know the formulas for the fresh spice mixtures he blends himself. He only teaches a few, and keeps them a closely guarded secret, but tells me his focus is on quality ingredients for his customers. He never cuts corners.

At both locations, the displays of reasonably priced meats, brilliantly coloured in an array of mild and spicy marinades, allow people to cook delicious meals themselves.

On weekends, customers line up out the door to stock up on meats for the grill, for parties and backyard barbecues, or to stash away in the freezer for quick weeknight meals.

"It's good to keep everyone at home," Gill said.

"Together. It's good to be at home with your family, to cook and share a meal, and to celebrate."

Apna Desi Meat Masala is at #734 5075 Falconridge Blvd N.E. and #7171 80 Ave N.E., in Taralake Plaza.