Recipes with Julie Van Rosendaal: Putting food scraps to good use

With food prices continuing on an upward trajectory, it's more important than ever to pay attention to food waste and use every scrap in the kitchen.

We've moved past tossing broccoli stems (they're delicious, especially once peeled!). But you can also cook and eat cauliflower leaves and stems, and use cilantro stems in everything — they contain more water than the leaves but at least as much flavour.

If you're ever peeling potatoes, toss the peels in oil and roast at 425 F or shallow-fry until crisp, then shower with salt for the most delicious rustic homemade chips.

And if you're using canned chickpeas or kidney beans, don't pour the liquid they're packed in down the drain. That aquafaba behaves much like egg and can be turned into meringue, used in baked goods and will even emulsify homemade mayonnaise.

• Bookmark cbc.ca/juliesrecipes to keep up with all of Julie Van Rosendaal's dishes.

And because the skins of bananas and oranges are totally edible — and full of flavour, fibre and other nutrients — why not use the whole fruit when making your next batch of muffins or banana bread?

This week on the Calgary Eyeopener, we spoke about a few recipes that will help you use kitchen scraps that might otherwise wind up in the compost bin.

Whole Fruit Muffins

Yes, you can purée a whole banana, skin and all, to make your banana bread or muffins — I find it's easier if they've been frozen and thawed.

You can do the same thing with oranges. I prefer mandarins and other thin-skinned varieties, and it's a great way to make use of those squishy ones that may not be ideal for eating.

I made these using one average-sized banana and one mandarin orange, because that's what I had, but you can scale it up if you have more fruit to use.

Ingredients

• 1 overripe banana (preferably frozen and thawed)
• 1-2 mandarin oranges
• ½ cup sugar (white or brown)
• 1 egg
• ¼ cup canola oil (or melted butter or coconut oil)
• 1 tsp vanilla
• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• 1 tsp cinnamon (optional)
• 1 tsp baking soda
• ¼ tsp salt
• a handful of chopped walnuts or pecans, chocolate chips, and/or raisins or dried cranberries (optional)
• coarse sugar, like turbinado or demerara, for sprinkling (optional)

Preheat the oven to 375 F.

Cut the banana into large chunks, trimming and tossing the stem and base ends, and put them into the bowl of a food processor.

Quarter your mandarin, toss any large seeds and put those chunks in, too, along with the sugar.

Pulse until the fruit is puréed, then add the egg and vanilla and pulse until well-blended.

LISTEN | Julie Van Rosendaal talks about how to make the most of the food in your fridge:

Pour into a bowl and add the flour, cinnamon, baking soda and salt. Stir until almost combined; add any nuts, chocolate chips or dried fruit you like and stir just until blended.

Divide the batter between paper-lined muffin tins, filling them all the way, and if you like, sprinkle the tops with coarse sugar.

Bake for 20 minutes, or until golden and springy to the touch.

Makes: About 6 muffins.

Aquafaba Pavlova Roulade or Eton Mess

I adore pavlova — a meringue nest filled with curd, tart fruit and mounds of whipped cream — and it's also absolutely delicious in roll form.

If you let the roll sit for about an hour, it holds its shape but softens enough to slice easily, or even scoop up with a spoon.

To make things easier — or if your meringue doesn't turn out the way you planned — break it into chunks and layer with juicy fruit or compote, lemon curd (if you like) and whipped cream.

Ingredients

Meringue:

• 1 cup sugar
• 2 tsp cornstarch
• ¼ tsp cream of tartar (optional)
• ¾ cup aquafaba (the liquid drained from a can of chickpeas or kidney beans)

Lemon curd (optional):

• 4 egg yolks
• ¾ cup sugar
• Grated zest and juice of a lemon
• ¼ cup lemon juice (extra)
• ¼ cup butter 

Toppings:

• 1 cup whipping cream
• 2 tbsp icing sugar, plus extra for sprinkling
• sliced or chopped berries or other soft, juicy fruit, or fruit compote (I simmered berries and rhubarb with sugar until saucy, then cooled)

Preheat the oven to 300 F and use parchment to line a baking sheet. I use a half sheet pan that's about 12x18 inches. 

In a small bowl or measuring cup, stir together the sugar, cornstarch and cream of tartar (if you're using it!).

In a large glass or stainless steel bowl, beat the aquafaba with an electric mixer until soft peaks start to form; gradually add the sugar and cornstarch mixture, beating until the mixture holds stiff, glossy peaks. Beat in the vanilla.

Spread the meringue evenly over the baking sheet and bake for 30 minutes, or until very pale golden and set.

Let cool completely on the sheet.

Meanwhile, make the lemon curd:

In a medium saucepan, whisk together the egg yolks, sugar, lemon zest and juice.

Set over medium-high heat and whisk until bubbling and thickened.

Remove from the heat and add the butter. Set aside for a few minutes, then whisk until smooth.

Pour into a bowl through a sieve, cover and cool or refrigerate until well chilled.

For whipped cream, whip the cream with the icing sugar until you have soft peaks.

For the roulade:

Run a knife around the edge of the meringue to loosen it from the edge of the sheet and invert it onto a cutting board or your countertop.

Spread with the cooled curd and scatter with fruit, or drop stewed fruit or compote in spoonfuls over the curd. I like to leave a few inches at one short end, as the filling tends to push down as you roll.

Starting at the other short end, gently roll up the roulade and transfer to a serving plate, if you like, or leave it on the cutting board. 

Let the roulade sit for about an hour, so that the meringue softens.

Serve in slices or in large spoonfuls.

For Eton mess:

Break the meringue into pieces and layer on a platter or in a wide bowl (or in individual bowls or glasses) with the curd, saucy fruit and cream.

Serves: About 8.