Stampede style: Cowboy boots getting some respect in high fashion circles
Stampede is the busiest time of year for companies that make and sell the boots
The cowboy boot is a Stampede fashion staple most of us don't give much thought to, until they're dusted off and pulled on to go party for the next 10 days.
This workhorse of footwear has a history that has endured through the decades, from farm fields to the fashion runways of Paris. Last week, Vogue magazine deemed 2016 The Year of Cowboy Boots — for men and women.
With Stampede kicking off on Thursday — and the extra sartorial attention the iconic footwear is gaining — maybe it's time to show a little respect and revisit the backstory, plus throw in a few fitting tips and trends.
Through the years, the cowboy boot may get the occasional short-lived makeover like last year's fad, the Cowboy boot sandal. But most years, the classic cowboy styles dominate, with the occasional rhinestone embellishment and other Western-inspired liberties being taken.
While the average man generally sticks with the tried and true brown leather boot, women have a lot more choices. Men still seem to prefer the Roper, a round-toed style with a lower heel, says Myrna Beaton, associate manager at Lammle's Chinook location.
Stampede is the store's busiest time when the store sell hundreds of boots leading up to and during Stampede.
Ben Gerwing's family has owned and operated the Alberta Boot Company in Calgary since 1978. It's shod generations of Stampede-goers and celebrities of all stripes. They include the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, Prince William and Kate Middleton, who came to the Stampede in 2011, and Mayor Neheed Nenshi. It's also designed boots for many of the western movies made in Alberta. The store does half of it's retail at this time of year, between locals and tourists.
Some fun facts and trivia about cowboy boots.
Cowboy boot backstory
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The 'Coffeyville' cowboy boot, the style most popularized, was invented in Coffeyville, Kansas in 1870 and generally worn by cattle ranchers.
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It had a rounded or square toe, and the distinctive square-ish "Cuban" heel.
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The rounded or square toe design made it easier to put into a stirrup of the Western saddle.
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The popularity of Western movies and radio shows in the 1920s and '30s put the cowboy boot on the fashion map among city folks.
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The renaissance of the cowboy boot happened in the 1950s with the rise in popularity of country music. That's also when the pointy toe started to appear.
Cowboy boot trivia and oddities
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Each boot-making company has it's own "brand" on the toe or shaft, generally a distinctive stitching. The Alberta Boot Company has a series of stitches named after places in Alberta, including Calgary and Edmonton. Mayor Neheed Nenshi and Prince William both have boots with the Calgary stitch pattern, says Gerwing, while Kate has the Edmonton stitch.
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The designs used to be sewn by hand and the more lines of stitching increased the price of the boot. These days the stitching is mechanized.
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Cowhide, the least expensive material for making boots, isn't the only hide used. Ostrich,alligator, snakeskin, kangaroo, lizard, and even stingray are used — and are usually more pricey. "It really just comes down to personal preference. Not everyone wants a basic black or brown western boot that's made of cowhide," says Gerwing.
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More than 200 steps are involved in the making of a pair of modern hand-made cowboy boots.
Tips for the best fit
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Width is much more important than the length of the boot. The boot needs to be snug but not too tight so you can wear it comfortably for hours on end.
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The more rounded or square toe of a Roper with a lower "western walking heel" is more comfortable, and "you can stand for hours on end," says Gerwing.
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Lammle's Beaton says generally you should buy a boot a half to one size smaller than your regular shoes. The boot should be snug, because leather stretches. But your foot should feel good in it the minute you pull the boot on. You should also be able to "lift" your heel. She also recommends wearing a good cotton sock for added comfort.
Trends for 2016
Tanya MacIntosh, store manager at Calgary Fluevog shoe store, says there are always the people who are looking for something fashion-forward and that can be worn beyond the Stampede.
"People get pretty adventurous in their Stampede footwear. [They] come looking for something offbeat, western inspired that carries you through the year."
- For women, the ankle bootie remains popular.
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Fringe detailing is another trendy look.
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You might just see thigh-high chaps-style cowboy boots on the stampede grounds — seen in spring on the catwalks of Paris. It remains to be seen whether this trend lasts longer than an eight-second bull ride.
