Kitchener-Waterloo

Looking for Latin American food? Andrew Coppolino share his picks

Whether you are craving a tasty taco or a warm pupusa, CBC KW food columnist Andrew Coppolino shares his picks for Latin American food in Waterloo Region.
Pupusas on a grill
If you want pupusas, Kitchener is the best place in the region to find them. (darqdesign/Shutterstock)

The annual Cinco de Mayo celebration of Mexican history, culture and food is a big deal, even if it is connected to a victory in the relatively small Battle of Puebla in 1861.

Contrary to what many might think, Cinco de Mayo is not a celebration of Mexican independence,which is recognized as September 16, 1821, but it is a perfect occasion to fete the Mexican and other Latin American delicacies – tacos, tamales, pupusas and more – that can be found in Waterloo Region.

More than guacamole

While guacamole is a very popular sauce and dip, there's more to Mexican and Latin American cooking than this popular topper.

I think that one of the things I like best about it are the simple flavours, textures and the comfort-food quality it possesses. And simple only goes so far: the complex Mexican chile-based sauce called mole is made with upwards of 20 ingredients. 

Considering Latin American and Spanish-influenced cookery in other countries, you have a cuisine that is both local and global. Latin American ingredients and techniques, from Brazilian rotisserie cooking, Argentine asado barbecue and Peruvian ceviche to the aromatic flavour base of sofrito that is also part of southern U.S., Italian and Spanish cooking, are a vibrant part of any city's restaurant and food scene. 

Waterloo

Taco Farm Co. in Uptown Waterloo offers Mexican-inspired dishes, and their tacos are made in their big Los Angeles-imported tortilla machine. Make sure you try the churros if you visit - they're sweet and covered in surgar. There's a good selection of tequilas too.

In the Lakeshore Village area near Albert and Phillip Streets, you'll find Tres Chiles Mexican restaurant serving everything from taquitos to enchiladas to the rice-stuffed peppers known as chiles rellenos with Oaxaca cheese.

Both Waterloo and Kitchener have Holy Guacamole outlets for Tex-Mex style food made by the small Waterloo Region-based chain.
 

A pan of churros, waiting to be coated in sugar and cinnamon and dipped in dulce de leche sauce. (viennetta/Shutterstock )

Cambridge

In Galt, Cambridge, there are two Mexican restaurants. Latinoamerica Unida is a popular 30-seat venue serving tacos, tostadas, chimichangas, quesadillas and fajitas, as well as a grocery store stocking Mexican food specialities.

A few blocks away is El Rinconcito Mexicano ("little corner of Mexico") serving thick tortilla sopes, hominy pozole soup and huaraches (the name for Mexican sandals) which are corn tortillas topped with meat, vegetables, rice and sauces.

Kitchener

Upstairs at the Kitchener Market is Casa Salsa Mexican, which serves huevos rancheros for breakfast, crispy tacos called flautas, quesadillas and more.

Kitchener is also home to several El Salvadoran restaurants and grocery stores. Here, it seems, the stuffed corn pancake known as the pupusa rules. But restaurants such as The Guanaquita on King Street in the central blocks of the downtown serve also servce tamales, tacos, enchiladas and pastelitos. You can get tango lessons too.

There are similar foods and meals at Pupuseria Latinos on Eby Street, Mi Tienda Latina on Ontario Street and the America Latina Deli on King Street near Francis, where you can head for churros and dulce de leche and breakfasts on Friday and Saturday. Upstairs at the Kitchener Market, La Flor de Izote serves El Salvadoran fare as well.

Another aspect of these businesses that I really appreciate is that they are family-owned and operated. They not only add a layer of vibrancy and delicious food to the region, but they share with the entire community their passion for their food and culture.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Andrew Coppolino

Food columnist, CBC Kitchener-Waterloo

CBC-KW food columnist Andrew Coppolino is author of Farm to Table (Swan Parade Press) and co-author of Cooking with Shakespeare (Greenwood Press). He is the 2022 Joseph Hoare Gastronomic Writer-in-Residence at the Stratford Chefs School. Follow him on Twitter at @andrewcoppolino.