London food truck operators say they've turned a corner

It's taken time, patience and some persistence but after overcoming some early skeptics, London's food truck operators say they've become an accepted part of the city's culinary culture. 

There were early concerns the trucks would hurt bricks-and-mortar restaurants. Others worried they would block streets or create garbage. 

But truck operators who spoke to CBC say they've turned a corner in gaining acceptance from both the public and council and they're looking ahead to a busy summer season. Last month London's food truck operators formed their own association to represent the seven trucks that operate in the city.

At a recent meeting, the city's licensing department recommended trimming each truck's annual licence fee from $1,225 to $500. Truck owners say that change alone is a sign London food trucks have a smooth road ahead. 

Chris Bunting owns the Goodah Gastrotruck — he does gourmet grilled cheese sandwiches. He was also one of the city's first food truck operators, staring back in 2013. At the time, trucks were only allowed to operate on private lots but Bunting saw himself as a food truck ambassador, working to build the public's appetitive for street food while showing city council it can be done without harming local businesses.  

"Change can be difficult, change makes people a little nervous but we had a lot of support from the public," he said. "London [city council] wanted to make sure they did it right and they took their time, but now we're off."

Jessi Varey co-owns the Smokestacks food truck, which sells Southern barbecue and fish tacos. She praises the city for giving food trucks a chance to prove themselves. 

"They are being more accepting now because they are seeing how much the community and London enjoys it," she said. 

Trucks require a city-issued licence and can't operate within 25 metres of a bricks-and-mortar restaurant. They must also find their own street parking. To secure a good spot for the lunch rush, some truck operators arrive before dawn. 

Trucks 'all work together'

Truck operators say forming an association — a new development that happened this spring — has been key to their success and acceptance. 

Varey said the truck operators work as allies, not enemies, to present a united front to city council and the public. 

"We can kind of bounce ideas off of each other," she said. "When we first started last year, Chris Bunting [the grilled cheese guy] reached out to us and asked if we needed any advice. It was very welcoming. At first we thought 'We're the new kids on the block, nobody is going to want us here,' but the other food trucks in London are going through the same issues as we are, so we all work together and help each other out."

Good food variety

The trucks offer a mix of fare that goes beyond burgers and fries. The Bifana Boys truck serves "Portuguese fusion," the spicy piri-piri sandwich is a top seller as is a menu item called "angry fries." What are those? Here's how truck owner Ricardo Cavaco describes them: "Fries with a garlic aioli on top, tossed in a piri-piri house-made rub, piri-piri ketchup on top and banana peppers. Very spicy."

For those who prefer sweet over savoury, the Donut Diva truck serves mini-donuts fried right on site. After taking the customer's order, truck owner Dee Spencer squirts the dough rings into an oil bath. An automated conveyer floats the donuts along before lifting them out. Spencer can crank out a dozen donuts in about 90 seconds. She says her donuts are very different than the kind most Canadians are used to. 

"They're cake donuts so they're lighter, they're fluffier, they're served warm," she said.

Fresh from the fryer, the plain donuts are then sprinkled the customer's choice of more than 30 different sugar flavours, everything from cheesecake to lemon meringue.

Spencer said her customers enjoy seeing their donuts roll off the mini assembly line.

"Because they actually see the machine, you'd think the kids would be the ones who are fascinated with it, but it's actually the adults who enjoy watching it more than the kids," she said.

The Cocoville truck serves Caribbean food tailored for a Canadian clientele. The menu includes jerk chicken sandwiches and Calypso wraps. A top seller, the Cubano is a classic Cuban sandwich done on Cuban bread with smoked braised pork, Black Forest ham, Swiss cheese, a dill pickle with an aioli mayonnaise and mustard. 

Where to find the trucks? 

Though the trucks can be a moving target, the food truck association tries to make it easy for customers by parking at the same spots throughout the week. Checking the association's Facebook page or following your favourite truck on social media is a good way to find out where they are. 

For now, trucks tend to show up at the following locations for lunch service, but note this schedule can change: 

• Tuesday: Talbot and Queens streets. This is a slower day, so often the trucks aren't all there.
• Wednesday: Richmond and Queens street in front of St. Paul's cathedral.
• Thursday: King Street east of Wellington.
• Friday: Food truck Friday outside of London Life at Queens and Wellington streets.
• Sunday: At Springbank Park from 12 p.m. to 5 p.m. across from the splash pad.