Want cake but it's too hot to bake? Try out this simple classic
Renée Kohlman's sour cherry and vanilla icebox cake takes advantage of Sask.'s fresh cherries
In the summer, those of us who don't have air conditioning either put baking on hold or just sweat it out, dewy brows and all. But when you think about it, bakers were working their magic long before there were fancy appliances.
Let's go back in time and talk about the icebox cake, an indulgent treat that can be made without turning on the oven. This little beauty, made in the refrigerator, is perfect for when sweet cravings coincide with heat waves and peak summertime fruit.
Icebox cakes have been around for close to 100 years. They were invented in the 1920s, when companies would give out recipes to promote their new kitchen appliance, the electric icebox.
Back then, the average home cook didn't have a huge refrigerator. Instead, they used an insulated box that held a block of ice delivered by truck. The icebox cake produced the desired cake-like consistency in this new appliance, without baking. Even when modern refrigerators replaced iceboxes, the name stuck, adding nostalgic charm to the light and creamy dessert.
The classic icebox cake is simply chocolate wafers layered with sweetened vanilla whipped cream. Nothing more and nothing less. It was layered in a loaf pan, chilled and sliced, revealing a pretty pattern of cookies and cream inside.
Home cooks would experiment with other types of cookies, boxed pudding, sweetened condensed milk and flavours of whipped cream. The variations are endless, and after one bite it's easy to see why this cake remains popular all these years later.
Sour cherries and Saskatchewan
Saskatchewan loves its sour cherries. Thanks to the University of Saskatchewan's fruit program, dwarf sour cherries have been bred here since 1940. In fact, the U of S has the most northern program in North America for breeding hardy fruit for Canada's cold climate.
After decades of research and hard work, the Carmine jewel sour cherry was released for propagation in 1999. Then came the romance series in 2004, which includes Romeo, Juliet, Valentine, Cupid and crimson passion breeds.
Besides having cute names, romance series cherries are incredibly reliable and produce prolifically. A cross between sour cherries from Mongolia and Northern Europe, they have been proven to thrive in our extreme Prairie climate.
If you're lucky enough to own a sour cherry tree (or wise enough to make friends with someone who does), congratulations! I envy you. But those of us who need to search them out need not fear.
Your best bet is to hit up a local farmers' market, where growers have gone to the trouble of doing the picking for you. There are also quite a few pick-your-own orchards in Saskatchewan.
There's Everyday Farms close to Clavet. Then there is Bruno, also known as "The Cherry Town of the Prairies." Not only does it have one of the largest dwarf cherry orchards in Western Canada, you can also take in the annual Bruno Cherry Sunday held in early August.
The website Pick Your Own Farms (Pick your own farms near me in Canada. U-pick farms | ca.PickYourOwn.farm) even lets you put in your location and what you would like to pick, then recommends options. Just make sure to call a farm directly before heading out, lest you drive on bumpy country roads for nothing.
Sour cherry and vanilla icebox cake
I was the fortunate recipient of some already picked (and pitted!) sour cherries, and my only dilemma was what to make with the tiny treasures.
I adore a good slice of cake, but the screaming hot temperatures swayed me from anything that required the oven for too long. I decided to create a sour cherry icebox cake. It's a lovely combination of flavours, and just look at that presentation.
Using graham crackers, a simple (and slightly boozy) sour cherry sauce and sweetened vanilla bean whipped cream, this dessert takes just a handful of minutes to prepare. I love how the crackers are soft, but not soggy. They melt in your mouth, and you almost have to pinch yourself to check that you're not eating a traditional cake.
There are three layers of graham crackers, five layers of whipped cream and two layers of sour cherry sauce. Each layer of graham crackers is about five full graham crackers (you can break some up to fit). This recipe yields four cups of whipped cream and you will use about 3/4 cup per layer.
The cake needs to be in the freezer for a minimum of five hours, so plan your serving time accordingly.
Sour cherry sauce:
- 3 cups fresh or frozen pitted sour cherries.
- 3/4 cup granulated sugar.
- 2 tsp cornstarch.
- 2 tsp water.
- 1 Tbsp cherry whisky or bourbon, optional.
Cake:
- 2 cups whipping cream.
- 1/4 cup icing sugar.
- 2 tsp vanilla bean paste or extract.
- 1 sleeve of graham crackers.
- 3/4 cup fresh blueberries, for garnish.
- fresh mint and edible flowers, for garnish
1) Make the sour cherry sauce: Combine the sour cherries and sugar in a small saucepan over medium heat. Cook the fruit for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Whisk together the cornstarch and water in a small bowl. Stir this into the cherries and cook, stirring continuously, for two minutes, until the sauce is thickened. Remove from the heat and stir in the whisky. Let cool to room temperature then cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for a few hours or overnight.
2) Line a 9×5-inch loaf pan with plastic wrap, letting it hang over the edges so the cake can be lifted out easily.
3) Make the whipped cream: Fit a whisk to a stand mixer, then combine the whipping cream, icing sugar and vanilla bean paste in the bowl. Beat until soft peaks form, about two minutes.
4) Assemble the cake: Spread two spoonfuls of whipped cream into a very thin layer on the bottom of the prepared pan. This will help the bottom layer of graham crackers stick. I use an offset spatula to get into the corners easily. Layer graham crackers on top. Spread about 3/4 cup of whipped cream on top of those graham crackers. Next, layer 3/4 cup of the cherry sauce on top, another 3/4 cup of whipped cream, another layer of graham crackers, 3/4 cup of whipped cream, another 3/4 cup of the cherry sauce, 3/4 cup of whipped cream, graham crackers, then the rest of the whipped cream. Cover with plastic wrap and place in the freezer for about five hours. You will have some sour cherry sauce left over. Pour this into a small dish and save for garnishing the cake when serving.
5) Let the cake soften in the refrigerator for about one hour or at room temperature for 10 to 15 minutes. Remove the cake from the pan using the plastic wrap overhang. Top with reserved cherry sauce, mint and flowers. Cut into slices and serve cold. Cover any leftovers and store in the refrigerator or freezer. Serves eight to 10.