North

75 years on, Alaska Highway still an adventure for truckers

The road's in better shape and the trucks are bigger, but experienced drivers always prepare. "If you break down, or if the highway is closed due to a washout or an accident, you could sit for a couple days."

The road's better and the trucks are bigger, but drivers still need to prepare for anything

Mike Gunterschult and his big rig at the Airport Chalet truck stop, alongside the highway in Whitehorse. (Liam Harrap/CBC)

It's one of North America's longest and most famous highways, and this year marks its 75th anniversary.

And few people know the Alaska Highway better than the truckers who routinely drive it. 

​In less than nine months in 1942, more than 16,000 people built the 2,200 kilometre road from Dawson Creek, B.C. to Delta Junction, Alaska. Since then it's been a vital transportation artery, used first as a military supply route and then later a public highway.

Mike Gunterschult of Alberta has been driving trucks for 25 years and says there's no other route he prefers.

A view of an empty highway through the mountains.
Traffic is rarely a problem along the Alaska Highway. (Mardy Derby/CBC)

"There's very little traffic, it's peace and quiet. You don't see a cop around every corner, or cars. You just have to put up with the RVs. And that's about it. It's a lot simpler life up here — it's laid back," he said.

Gunterschult's truck is parked in the lot at the Airport Chalet, alongside the highway in Whitehorse. He's just driven for 13 hours, and Canadian law dictates he now rest for at least eight hours. 

There are few towns along the highway, as it winds through dense spruce, bog and rugged mountains. Areas with cell service are few and far between. Northern truckers have to be prepared for the unexpected, and they typically carry more supplies than when driving most other routes in Canada.

One of the major truck stops in Whitehorse, where drivers rest up during mandatory layovers. (Liam Harrap/CBC)

Gunterschult says he always has an extra alternator and brass fittings for air lines. He says having enough food to last two weeks is a "must."

"If you break down, or if the highway is closed due to a washout or an accident, you could sit for a couple days," he said.

Gunterschult has lost count of how many times he has broken down along the Alaska Highway. 

Big rigs

Trucker Terry Gansan, also from Alberta, says driving the Alaska Highway today is much different than it was even a few decades ago. For starters, the trucks are larger. 

"I came here in 1987 from the Philippines. I've noticed the size of trucks and trailers are 90 per cent bigger than in 1987," says Ganson.

Terry Gansan says highway trucks have become much bigger since he emigrated to Canada from the Philippines in 1987. ( Liam Harrap/CBC)

Gunterschult says he's also noticing more traffic along the highway these days. He believes it's connected to the Canadian dollar and if the dollar goes down, tourism goes up. 

"The economy thrives when it's down in the rest of Canada. Just due to tourism." 

Staying connected

Ben Macdonald has been a truck driver for almost 20 years.

In 2006, he was hauling milk and now, a decade later, he's trucking methane to Inuvik, N.W.T. Although transporting methane is more dangerous than milk, Macdonald says he is only making two dollars more per hour. 

One of the largest changes along the Alaska Highway has been technology.

Ben Macdonald relaxes in his berth - his home away from home, while trucking in the North. (Liam Harrap/CBC)

Even in areas with limited cell service, trucks can still stay connected to dispatch. Macdonald says he receives emails via satellite, warning him of road closures and accidents. They allow him to prepare, as he did recently when a section of the Dempster Highway — which would ultimately take him to Inuvik — unexpectedly closed.

"I looked and saw, 'oh, um, got a message'. Then I was informed that the road was closed. So I made some sandwiches and had a nap," he said.

Experience helps

The hiring process for truckers also isn't what it used to be. Macdonald says the roads today can be more dangerous as some new drivers may lack training and experience with driving conditions in the North. Inexperienced drivers can get stuck in snow or even cause an accident. 

Emma, Hootie and Goldie have been riding shotgun with Macdonald, and sharing his adventures on the road. (Liam Harrap/CBC)

Macdonald's family was concerned about his trucking the long northern distances alone. So he got some stuffed owls: Hooty, Emma, and Goldie. He often takes pictures of the toys in various places along the Alaska Highway and sends the pictures to his grandchildren, along with accompanying stories of the owl's adventures. 

Behind Macdonald's driver's seat is a sleeper berth. There's a kettle, coffee maker, microwave, and a bed. Above the bed is a guitar, ukelele, and a full-size keyboard. 

"It just fits if I sit on the bed just right, and I can pluck away for hours." 

The trucks keep the grocery shelves stocked, gas stations filled, and the mines operating. They also bring some music and colour to a secluded and remote landscape. 

The Alaska Highway is surrounded by boreal forest running north towards Whitehorse, in this file photo. ((Andy Clark/Reuters))