Saskatoon

This hearty autumn stew highlights a Saskatchewan staple

Cozy, comfort food is the best food, and decidedly one of the best things about the weather getting colder. Cassoulet is a perfect example. It’s traditionally a hearty, rich, slow-cooked bean stew with several steps and a long ingredient list.

Lentil and sausage cassoulet is the perfect comfort food as the weather cools

A closeup of a Dutch oven full of stew made of lentils, sausage and many other ingresients.
Cassoulet is traditionally a hearty, rich, slow-cooked bean stew with several steps and a long ingredient list. (Renée Kohlman)

There's something special about the crunch of fallen leaves and the wistful song of geese heading south. The world seems bathed in golden light as it readies itself for a long winter's nap.

One of my favourite autumn activities is sitting on my deck, bundled up in a cozy coat, hands wrapped around a mug of something warm, watching the blue jays and chickadees feed on the seeds I put out for them.

I love to see all creatures eating happily, whether they're feathered, feline, or friends and family.

I curse my gas range in the throes of summer heat waves, but I enjoy its rambunctious energy output in the fall and winter. I crank it on first thing in the morning and it warms the house mightily. This not only delays turning on the furnace until the last possible moment, but also means I can tuck tasty things inside the oven as it heats my house.

Whole squash are roasted, then easily stripped of their innards and skins when cooled. Chickens are nestled around onions, carrots and potatoes, making for a dandy fall supper. Apple cakes and crumbles permeate the house with a warm cinnamon aroma.

Cozy, comfort food is the best food, and decidedly one of the best things about the weather getting colder. Cassoulet is a perfect example. It's traditionally a hearty, rich, slow-cooked bean stew with several steps and a long ingredient list.

It's good to make if you have the time and inclination, but for those of us short on both, this quicker version with lentils and sausages comes together in a snap. Delicious and nutritious, this is a great meal for busy weeknights, plus there's just one pan to wash.

A Sask. specialty crop

A pot full of a hearty-looking stew.
Renée Kohlman uses brown lentils for this recipe, but says whole green or Puy would work just as well. (Renée Kohlman)

Lentils are a pantry staple in my house. I always have them on hand for this recipe and countless others. Not only are they affordable and incredibly versatile, they're grown right here in my beloved province of Saskatchewan, so I feel like it's my patriotic duty to eat them!

Roughly 95 per cent of Canada's lentils are grown in the province and Canada is the world's largest lentil producer. Considering the crop has only been grown for the last 50 or so years, lentil production is a true grown-in-Canada success story. 

It's easy to see why farmers love growing lentils so much. They are drought-tolerant, an important attribute in Saskatchewan. As long as they get a good bit of rain in May when they're planted, they're essentially good to go.

They also naturally replenish the soil with nutrients. Lentil plants capture free-floating nitrogen in the air and fix it in the soil. These nutrients stay in the soil, nourishing it for the next crop of wheat, barley, oats or whatever else is planted the following year. 

In short, lentils are super neat and we should be eating more of them.

Recipe: Lentil and sausage cassoulet

A pot full of hearty stew.
Cozy, comfort food is the best food, and decidedly one of the best things about the weather getting colder. Cassoulet is a perfect example. (Renée Kohlman)

I used brown lentils for this recipe, but whole green or Puy would work just as well. Split red lentils cook faster and break down easily, so they're not a good fit.

Sausages are the other important component, so use the best quality you can find. I'm a big fan of Cumberland sausage from Pig and Pantry in Saskatoon, and it worked well in this recipe. 

If you're vegetarian, you can skip the bacon and sausage. This stew will still be great! Perhaps add more vegetables or use a vegetarian sausage in its place. 

I like to serve this cassoulet with a side of crusty bread to soak up any juices. It also freezes incredibly well.

Ingredients:

  • 1 tbsp canola oil.
  • 6 to 7 strips thick-cut bacon.
  • 1 lb Cumberland or any other pork sausage.
  • 1 large onion, diced.
  • 2 large carrots, diced.
  • 2 stalks celery, diced.
  • 2 garlic cloves, minced.
  • 1 ½ cups whole brown or green lentils, rinsed and drained.
  • 2 to 3 cups chicken stock.
  • 1 796 mL can whole tomatoes.
  • 1 tbsp grainy mustard.
  • 1 tbsp apple cider vinegar.
  • 6 sprigs fresh rosemary or thyme (or ½ tsp dried).
  • Salt and pepper to taste.
  • 3 tbsp chopped fresh parsley.

1) Heat the oil in a very large skillet or Dutch oven over medium heat. Be sure it has a lid. Add the bacon and sausages. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the bacon is crisped and the sausages are browned, about 10 minutes. Remove to a paper towel-lined plate.

2) Into the hot fat, add the onion, carrots, celery and garlic. Hit with generous pinches of salt and pepper. Stir, scraping the bottom, for a few minutes, until the onions are softened.

3) Add the lentils, then pour in two cups of chicken stock. Add the tomatoes and their juices, breaking them up with your hands or kitchen scissors. Stir in the mustard, apple cider vinegar and rosemary, and season with salt and pepper. Chop the cooked bacon and slide it into the skillet along with the sausages. Bring to a boil, cover, then turn the heat down to low and simmer for 45 to 50 minutes, stirring occasionally. You may need to add more chicken stock as the lentils simmer. You want them to be very tender.

4) Stir in the parsley and season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve with crusty bread and a salad. Makes four servings.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Renée Kohlman

Freelance contributor

Renée Kohlman has been cooking and baking professionally for over twenty years. Her two cookbooks All the Sweet Things (TouchWood Editions) and Vegetables: A Love Story (TouchWood Editions) have won awards and been on best-of lists.